Last update July 2025. Added information about new luggage space in Nozomi/Hikari.
Change log for 2025 - Nozomi non-reserved cars are now only car 1 and 2. Nozomi become all reserved for the peak season such as Golden Week, O-bon and New Years. Added caution about use of third party ticketing sites.
Riding the bullet train is a great way to get around the country; often times much faster than going to the airport and having to go through all the security. There is no check-in process for riding the trains, so you just go the station and find the platform where your train is leaving.
This section gives you some advice on using the bullet trains, known as the "Shinkansen"
Q: Do you need seat reservations?
A: Some trains like the Kagayaki that goes to Kanazawa, or the Hayabusa train that goes to Hakodate, Hokkaido require a seat assignment prior to boarding. The New Year Holidays, the Golden Week Holiday period in May, and the O-bon period in mid-August is when trains tend to get full. Reservations open a month before.
At other times, there usually isn't too big of a concern about all the seats selling out. If you are traveling along the main route between Tokyo and Kyoto/Shin-Osaka, services are so frequent to the point where there are departures every 10 minutes during the peak hours. Most locals just get a ticket from the automated ticket machines (English option available) when they arrive at the station. While the machines accept credit cards, I have noticed that international credit cards get rejected at a higher rate. In that case, you'll have to line up at the ticket office which can take a few minutes. Like in many other places in Japan, it probably is a good idea to be carrying around some cash with you.
Most trains have a few cars which are designated as non-reserved. You simply find a open seat after you get on the train. On the Nozomi trains, this is car 1 and 2. If you are heading to Kyoto, chances are very slim that any of the non-reserved seats will still be vacant when the train arrives at Shinagawa or Shin-Yokohama, so make sure to get a seat assignment before boarding. If your departure point is Tokyo, you have more chances of finding seats for the non-reserved cars. (Note that starting in 2024, peak season Nozomi trains have become all reserved).
For the slower Kodama series train, almost the entire train is designated as non-reserved cars. Unless you are traveling in a big group, there is really no need in getting seat assignments as there will always be a seat available somewhere.
The reserved seat cars are for the use of passengers with advance seat assignments. Even when there are open seats, you are not allowed to sit in them if you don't have reservations.
Q: Are there any online booking available?
A: JR is broken down into six different companies (regions) and there is no universal ticketing site where all the JR trains can be booked.
For the Tokaido/Sanyo Shinkansen (the main route that runs between Tokyo-Kyoto-Shin Osaka-Hiroshima) go to the Smart EX website which is run by JR Central. These trains run very frequently, so most of the time you can visit the ticket office or automated ticket machine moments before you travel and have no problems in getting the tickets you need.
(Smart EX does not cover any non-Shinkansen trains run by JR Central such as the HIDA train between Nagoya-Takayama. In fact they lack any online reservation system besides for the Shinkansen. HIDA tickets can instead be purchased from the JR West reservation site.)
JR East has their online platform referred to as "EKI-NET". Choose menu "purchase tickets", then select the desired route from the pull-down menu. It is good for its northbound trains (destination such as Niigata, Sendai, Yamagata, Akita and Shin-Aomori) and also on the Hokuriku Shinkansen (Nagano, Toyama and Kanazawa) which it runs in conjunction with JR West.
The English version of Eki-Net does not have the option to purchase the Tokaido Shinkansen route towards Kyoto and Osaka though the Japanese version does. It seems like almost a deliberate attempt to get users to purchase the more expensive rail passes!
Of course you can also buy from a third party with a much better interface, but there is likely to be some restrictions on how/where you can pick up your actual ticket. For example, if the third party purchased the Kyoto to Hiroshima ticket from the Japanese version of Eki-Net, it would have to be picked up in the Tokyo area. Often the suppliers don't clearly indicate these requirements (or they don't know much about it in the first place...) so pay extra attention when you purchase.
Q: Can luggage be brought on-board?
A: There is space above the seats to put suitcases or backpacks and it will fit most sizes.
Most of the northbound trains run by JR East have luggage space at either ends of the car. The same with the Narita Express airport train.
Starting in July 2025, the JR Central Shinkansen trains (Nozomi/Hikari/Kodama) also added a limited number of luggage racks at the rear of cars which they call "Oversized baggage compartment". This can be used without any reservation, but they only exist in between cars 3/4, 5/6, 7/8, 9/10, 13/14 and 15/16.
https://global.jr-central.co.jp/en/info/oversized-baggage/
Otherwise, you can also use the "Oversized baggage area" which is basically the space behind the last row of seat on each car. Reservation is necessary to use this space, which you can book at the same time you make an online seat reservation. Any baggage with overall dimensions of over 160 cm (62 in) will not fit the overhead bins, but these are sizes that most airline would not accept even as checked in luggage, so you don't need to be overly concerned about booking the designated space. However the space would be useful if you any heavy items where you foresee issues safely storing overhead.
As a general advice for travel to Japan, I strongly advise that you make every effort to pack light because the public infrastructure in Japan generally does not take any account of people carrying large object. Alternatively, make use of the Takuhaibin (luggage forwarding service) that many hotels can arrange for a fee in order to avoid bringing in large objects to the station and trains.
Q: What are the facilities on-board the train?
A: All seats have a tray and a pocket to put drinks and belongings. Many of the newer trains have power sockets (100V) on the window-side seats for recharging mobile phones. Some the older trains used in the Hikari or Kodama service between Shin-Osaka and Hakata only have sockets at the very front and back of each car.
Most trains have free WIFI but it is unstable in mountainous areas. Also with a full train, getting a good connection could be more difficult.
It is ok to eat and drink in your seat. It is advised to make a purchase before boarding as services onboard the train are discontinued on many trains due to staff shortages.
There is a toilet in either end of each car.
All seats are now designated as non-smoking.
Information on the Japan Rail Pass and whether it is worth the money .